'Good taste is the only rule that matters nowadays, good taste is being able to stop at a certain point, to be able to give up'. This is what Giorgio Armani said in a recent interview and we totally agree with him. Having this idea in our mind as starting point, we want to analyze some of the fashion shows for the upcoming Autumn Winter.

Luke and Lucie Meier continue the work of Jil Sander with style and chiqueness. The slightly oversized volumes do not hide femininity but actually enhances it. Shapes are clean, sober, very tasteful, it looks like a fluid and delicate motion that almost caresses the body. Their fit is suitable for all women, you do not need a perfect body, this is the right intuition of the two stylites for a brand that has always been suitable for a mature and refined woman.

We liked some of Prada's proposals that reminds us a little bit Jil Sander of a few years ago, skirts and dresses with beautiful flowers, some printed and some are applied as three-dimensional installations that fascinated us. It is a poetic dimension that evaluates the woman. The woman proposed by Alessandro dell'Acqua for N ° 21 is sober and feminine. With all the respect to Alessandro Michele and his collaborators work, a brand that figures 2 billion euros a year, at Gucci fashion show we struggle to find something beautiful. Genderless, unkempt, a little 'seventies and a bit' of everything. In our opinion, a dress must be flattering, give security, wrap and bring out character. These outfits are not giving any justice to women figure. Certainly they will sell many sneakers, a trend that does not seem to fade. Fashion is something else and we should learn from Lagerfeld school or Giorgio Armani words to give a timeless and serious trademark. Lagerfeld also left the example of a sober, reserved and hard-working man, never over the top. 

Dolce & Gabbana have given a lesson of fashion, style, richness of ideas and fabrics with their show. It starts out with Marlene Dietrich, smoking , trousers that reminds us Katherine Hepburn and then move on to the hyperfeminity of pastel-colored silk gowns with fur trim, Cinderella looks, velvets, animalier and feminine flowers prints. The woman is like a painting. Tartan suits, inspiration from Dior jackets and Comme des Garçons, many skirts of all types, both wheel and sheath, wide trousers and new men's coats. Fairy capes, brocades, and wedding dresses for a dream wedding. The two designers had to make it up after what happened in China. It was a big mistake, but it can happen to anyone to fall of the wheel. Greatness is knowing how to rise up again with tenacity, trust and hope. Good job! 

(Maximiliano Cattaneo)